Curing concrete

Wet Curing Concrete vs Curing Compound, Plastic and Blankets

You cure concrete by adding water (sprinkling, ponding, wet burlap) or by holding the mix water in (plastic, paper, curing compound). Wet curing is the most thorough if it never dries out. For most driveways and patios, a sprayed curing compound is the practical choice. Plastic works but can streak. Blankets are for cold. Keep any method in place 7 days.

Last reviewed 7 min read

Every curing method does one of two jobs. It adds water to the surface, or it stops the water already in the mix from leaving. The NRMCA curing guide sorts them the same way. Pick the one you can keep in place, unbroken, for the full curing period.

What are the ways to cure concrete?

There are six in common use: sprinkling or fogging, ponding, wet coverings like burlap, plastic sheeting, curing paper and sprayed curing compound. The American Concrete Institute FAQ lists the same set and adds leaving the forms in place on the sides. Here is how they compare.

MethodTypeBest forWatch out for
Sprinkling, fogging, soaker hoseAdds waterSlabs you can watch all day, hot weatherMust stay wet nonstop; not below freezing
PondingAdds waterSmall slabs, bridge decksNeeds a dike around the edge; rare on residential work
Wet burlap or cotton matsAdds waterSlabs and walls; under plasticKeep wet and weighted; must not stain the surface
Plastic sheetingHolds water inPlain slabs, no water supply on siteAt least 4 mil; streaks and mottling; lifts in wind
Curing paperHolds water inSlabs where looks matterTwo-ply kraft; tape and weight the seams
Curing compoundHolds water inMost driveways, patios, large pavingSpray right after the sheen goes; wax types can block bonding

The NRMCA guide calls continuous fogging or sprinkling “an excellent curing method” and ponding “the most thorough method of water curing,” though rare. For flatwork it also allows damp sand or sawdust, and a 6 in. (150 mm) layer of wet straw under a tarp on small areas.

What is wet curing concrete?

Wet curing means keeping free water on the surface for the whole curing period, by sprinkling, fogging, a soaker hose, ponding or wet burlap. It is the method that adds water, so it keeps the cement reacting even if the mix runs a little dry. The catch is that it has to stay wet every hour, day and night.

Start it after final finishing, not before. Until then, NRMCA says to protect the surface with fogging or an evaporation retarder. Water sprayed on before the last trowel pass ends up worked into the surface.

How often do you water new concrete?

Often enough that the surface never turns light and dry. There is no fixed number of passes. Federal pavement guidance has moist curing checked at least twice a day, weekends included, and adds a day of curing for any area found dry. A sprinkler on a timer or a soaker hose under burlap is easier than hand watering.

Can you over water concrete?

Not once it has set. The ACI FAQ says water only needs to be added to replace water the concrete loses, so extra water just runs off. The real mistakes are watering too early, letting it dry between waterings, and using cold water. FHWA’s curing guidelines keep curing water no more than 18°F (10°C) colder than the concrete surface.

Is curing compound as good as water curing?

For most flatwork, yes, as long as it goes on at the right time and rate. Continuous water curing is more thorough, but only if nobody lets it dry. A curing compound film cannot dry out overnight, which is why FHWA calls compound “the most practical and economical method” for large paving.

The compound must meet the C309 or C1315 spec, and NRMCA says to apply it “immediately after disappearance of water sheen on the surface after final finishing.” Late is worse than early: once the surface dries, the film does not form properly. For the difference between wax, resin and acrylic products, see types of concrete curing compounds.

Rate matters too. ACI 301, as summarized by FHWA, caps the rate at no more than 5 m²/L, about 200 ft²/gal. NRMCA suggests two coats at right angles for an even film, and notes white pigmented compound reflects sun and shows where you have sprayed.

There is one case where water wins outright. The FHWA summary of ACI 305R says concrete with a water to cement ratio below 0.40 should be water cured rather than sealed with a membrane. Those dense mixes need added water to keep hydrating.

Should you cover concrete while curing?

Yes, covering is a standard curing method, and it needs no water supply once it is down. Use plastic, curing paper or wet burlap with plastic over it. Each one has rules that decide whether it works.

For plastic, NRMCA asks for film to ASTM C171, at least 4 mil (0.10 mm) thick, laid in direct contact with the surface as soon as you can without marking it. Overlap, tape and weight the edges. Run the sheet past the slab edge by at least twice the slab thickness, so 8 in. past a 4 in. slab.

Plastic has two weak spots. Wrinkles cause dark streaks or a mottled look, so NRMCA says not to use it where appearance matters. Federal guidance notes sheets may not suit windy sites, and has inspectors check that the surface is still wet underneath.

When do you use curing blankets?

Use insulated curing blankets when nights drop near freezing. NRMCA says to protect new concrete from freezing until it reaches at least 500 psi (3.5 MPa) using insulating materials, and to use curing methods that hold moisture in, rather than wet curing, when freezing is expected. Put plastic or compound on first, then the blankets.

Wet “curing blankets” are a different product: burlap or cotton mats that hold water against the surface. They are a wet curing method and belong in warm weather. The FHWA summary of ACI 306R says water curing is not recommended in the cold because leaking water freezes.

Which curing method fits your job?

Match the method to the slab and the weather. This table is the short version.

Your jobBest methodWhy
Driveway, patio or sidewalk, mild weatherCuring compoundOne pass, nothing to babysit
Hot, dry or windy dayWet cure, white plastic or white pigmented compoundKeeps the slab cooler and holds water in
Colored, stamped or exposed finishCuring compound or curing paperPlastic wrinkles leave dark streaks
Floor getting tile, paint, epoxy or adhesiveWet cure, or a wax-free or dissipating compoundWax films can stop the floor finish from bonding
Low water to cement ratio (below 0.40)Wet cureNeeds added water, not just a film
Nights near or below freezingCompound or plastic, then insulated blanketsWet curing water freezes
Large paving or parking lotsCuring compoundMost practical at scale

If the slab will get a floor covering, read the curing compound and flooring guide before you pick. NRMCA recommends wax-free curing materials on concrete that will be painted or that needs a covering bonded to it. To narrow down a compound for your slab, use the curing compound chooser.

How long should you cure concrete?

Keep any method in place for at least 7 days. The Indiana Ready Mixed Concrete Association says curing “should commence within minutes after placement and extend a minimum of 7 days.” NRMCA gives 3 to 7 days as typical, or whatever the project spec requires.

On spec work, ACI 308.1 sets 7 days as the default when the concrete is above 50°F (10°C), and lets curing stop early only if tests show 70% of specified strength. Cold weather and mixes with fly ash or slag take longer. For the full timeline, see how long concrete takes to cure.

At the end, let it dry out gradually. NRMCA says to let cover materials dry before you remove them.

If your slab dried out or the plastic left streaks

If the slab sat uncured for a few hours on a hot day, start curing now and run the full 7 days from today. NRMCA warns concrete left in a dry environment can lose as much as 50 percent of its potential strength. The surface takes the worst of it, with more dusting and crazing later.

If you used wet curing and it dried overnight, rewet it and add a day for each lapse, the same way federal inspectors extend curing when they find a dry area.

If plastic left dark streaks or blotches, that is the moisture and temperature difference under the wrinkles, the effect NRMCA describes. It is a color problem in the surface. On the next pour where looks matter, use compound or curing paper.

Frequently asked questions

How do you cure concrete?

Start right after final finishing and keep the slab from drying out for at least 7 days. Either keep water on it continuously (sprinkler, soaker hose, wet burlap) or seal the water in with plastic sheeting, curing paper or a sprayed curing compound.

Should you cover concrete while curing?

Covering is one of the standard ways to cure it. Use plastic at least 4 mil thick laid flat on the surface, with edges overlapped, taped and weighted. Skip plastic on colored or decorative work, because wrinkles leave dark streaks; use curing compound or curing paper there.

Can you over water concrete when curing?

Not once it has set and finishing is done. Curing water only replaces water the slab loses, so extra water just runs off. The mistakes are watering before final finishing, using water much colder than the slab, and letting it dry between waterings.

Is curing compound as good as water curing?

Continuous water curing is more thorough, and it is the better choice for mixes below 0.40 water to cement ratio. A curing compound applied right after the sheen leaves is good enough for most flatwork, and it cannot dry out on you overnight the way a sprinkler setup can.

How long should you wet cure concrete?

Seven days is the standard default. NRMCA gives 3 to 7 days as typical, and ACI 308.1 uses 7 days above 50°F (10°C) unless tests show the concrete has reached 70% of its specified strength. Mixes with fly ash or slag, and cold weather, need longer.