Cure and Seal and Curing Problems, and How to Fix Them

Many cure and seal problems trace back to over-application: a coat that is too heavy, or too many coats. Start with the symptom you see; each guide gives the likely cause and the fix.

Guides in this section

Find your problem by symptom

Common curing and sealer problems, likely causes and where to read the fix
What you seeLikely causeFirst fix to tryFull guide
Milky white haze on sealed concreteMoisture trapped in or under the film (blush)Solvent-based acrylic: xylene can re-melt it. Water-based: usually strip and redoCure and seal turned white
Sealer peeling or flaking offToo heavy a coat, too many coats, or a dirty or damp surfaceRemove loose film, clean, recoat thinPeeling, flaking or blotchy
Blotchy, uneven or shiny patchesUneven spraying or puddlingEven out with a thin coat, or strip if heavyPeeling, flaking or blotchy
Yellow or discolored surfaceResin compound over-appliedLet it weather or remove itPeeling, flaking or blotchy
Surface powders under trafficWeak top layer from bleed water, late or no curingRemove the weak layer, then harden or coatDusting, crazing and curling
Web of fine surface cracksCrazing from fast surface dryingUsually cosmetic; seal to hide dirt linesDusting, crazing and curling
Flooring or tile not bondingCuring compound film still on the slabTest, then remove the filmTest for curing compound

Why over-application causes most of them

A heavier coat looks like extra protection, but cure and seal is designed to go on thin. At typical solids it dries to roughly a mil or so of film. Pile on more and the film traps moisture, stays soft, fails to bond to the concrete under it, and later turns white or lets go. Resin curing compounds can also yellow when applied too heavy.

The fix starts before the problem: spray at the data sheet rate, use two light passes instead of one heavy one, and do not add coats the product does not call for. The coverage calculator shows how much a slab should actually take.

Before you fix anything

  • Find out what is on the slab. Solvent and water-based sealers need different fixes. Check the pail, the receipt or ask whoever applied it.
  • Try the water drop test. A drop that soaks in within about 5 to 10 seconds suggests there is no film. One that beads means something is still there.
  • Test a small area first. Any solvent, stripper or recoat should go on a test patch before the whole slab.